India Bike Tour

The cycling experience of India:

I had high anxiety about going & really questioned the route we had planned, well Richard planned. He had his heart set on central India & keen to see the Uncesco World heritage sites along the way. He has an extensive knowledge on stone carving and hence the sites planned to see along the way. The reality of cycling in India is it’s tough, no matter how you look at it. The main trunk roads are no go so the back roads are the solution to this problem. However this brings a new set of problems, navigation and road surface. The life saver for navigation which is new to both of us is an old Garmin my brother kindly gave me as he’d decided to update. The other great asset is Komoot App. It seems to have a clever algorithm to pick the smaller roads for cyclists. Yes, I mean SMALL tracks with surfaces ranging from babies bum smooth to choppy technical challenging roads. Add 25 kg to the weight of the bike touring & the fun really begins to start. What we are rewarded with is some of the finest cycling that both of us have encountered. Start piecing the magic ingredients together & we’ve been blessed with days you never want to end. All the rush and bustle of the totally insane towns gradually vanish into the Indian countryside. It’s certainly not without its faults, the rubbish at times saddening beyond belief, the sewage can be raw & fresh. But these pockets of sadness disappear into the romantic joy of a countryside from another era. The farm workers all so impressively engaged in such primitive ways of working. Always greeted us with beaming smiles, waves and HELLO!!!!!!! Nowhere else can you receive such uplifting reception.

This feeling is infectious all makes for such an all time favourite cycle ride. The climate is not far off perfect. Soooo chilly in the morning I had the fashion police chasing me with my socks and sandals, but hey, this is India & you can wear what ever you want. We tried setting off 6am with lights on to make good progress but did suffer. Freezing cold hands and little respite till the glorious sun rays appear. Quiet roads are precious & allow the scenery to unfold peacefully. Breakfast is tricky, no stores or anything is open. They can also be sparse so our top treat was nut crack. It’s consists of almonds, cashews, chopped apricot and some wierd India snack consisting of a few nuts and masses of boiled sugar. Surprisingly good & certainly kept our hunger at bay until we could reach the ultimate breakfast of all time, fresh Samosas. Nothing comes close to these divine beauties. Just enough spice to give a bead of sweat & without blowing the doors off. That combined with a masala chai is one of the priceless experiences only India can deliver. Time on a bicycle in India provides a space I don’t think anywhere else has provided. Space to think, to wander, to contemplate, to be, freedom. Sounds about crass but how would you try to put into words what is an experience of this type. I suppose senses help, every sense you have is assaulted by this experience. I love the smell of incense drifting from the little road side temples, just a small whiff is so comforting. I think I’ve already touched on the taste but the intensity of flavours are simply mouth watering. Richard is often remarking on all the sounds I make of appreciation, apparently unique to me. Visually you can’t be quite sure what you’ll witness next, something will undoubtedly happen when least expected. The ox pulled cart in 2024 takes some believing. Sounds however ain’t necessarily a strong point.

Somehow it’s acceptable to blow your horn for absolutely no reason & as often as possible. At first this could be amusing but soon that joke wears thin and both of us are cursing the use of it. I haven’t even mentioned the truck horn which comes in so many melodic LOUD forms!!!!!! The sense of touch can be appreciated on one of Richards Rhodes marathon stone temple endurance days. This involves eating little breakfast & starting on sun rise. Taking off on a brisk pace all day seeing as many temples you can cram. The intense pace begins to gradually fade about four when I’m ready to faint & a badly needed coconut juice is found at entrance of site. Being able to spend time in these ancient sites appreciating Richards technical knowledge brings it to another level. In particular touching some of the sensitive delicately carved details of the building is truly something to behold. The last sense of the mind whilst cycling in India provides an inner self inspection & a place of reserve. In the complex world of 2024 I feel such gratitude to be able to be on this journey. Seriously, no amount of therapy will reach the places this type of trip takes you, what’s more, it’s not finished, Namaste.